August 11 – From Tokyo to Kyoto: Tea, Trains, and Tiny Taverns

Yesterday we shifted our base of operations from the bright bustle of Tokyo to the historic calm of Kyoto. The two-hour ride on Japan’s famed bullet train was smooth, quiet, and fast enough to make you wonder why we ever put up with Amtrak. The steady rain made it the perfect day to be gliding through the countryside rather than trudging through it.

Once in Kyoto, we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed straight for our tea ceremony. Tradition was the order of the day, so all three of us donned kimonos. Jen also had her hair styled in the traditional way, and I have to say — she looked absolutely stunning. Holden and I did our best to rise to the occasion, but let’s just say we were more “enthusiastic participants” than fashion models.

After the ceremony, we ducked into a tiny bar — the kind with just a few seats and an air conditioner working overtime — for a round of drinks. It was the perfect cooldown before heading out again in search of dinner.

We found another tiny spot, this one centered almost entirely around the griddle. The chef was mere feet away, expertly cooking dish after dish. The food was outstanding — the kind of simple, flavorful cooking that makes you rethink everything you know about comfort food.

A bit of post-dinner shopping rounded out the evening before we headed back to the hotel for a glamorous night of laundry and mapping out the next day’s adventures. Not every moment of travel is Instagram-worthy, but it’s all part of the story.